In the heart of NOHO’s Arts District, BOW AND TRUSS is the perfect place for dinner before a show, just minutes from several theatres. The odd name, which I thought might be an homage to William Tell with a hernia, is actually an architectural term, not my area of expertise. The large, square, high-ceilinged room was once a garage but the motor fuel has been successfully replaced with virgin olive oil. The crowd is young and noisy, service is young and genuinely friendly. Secure a table against the brick wall, as far removed from the center bar where comfy pillows and lower decibels await. There’s also a lovely, open air patio good for a mild summer day and always pleasant in the evening.
Now to the best part, the food. Catalan blood flows through the veins of Chef James Markham and their authentic Spanish tapas are the real thing, attractively plated and very generous, around $10 to $12 each. Our three proved ample for two of us and were lip smacking, finger snapping and foot stomping delicious, olé! Unequivocally recommended: ceviche, lots of shrimp, tiny scallops and bites of fresh fish, magically marinated with cucumbers, onions and cherry tomatoes, served with yucca chips so thin, you can read this review through them, really excellent. Albondigas, three solid meatballs made with Spanish merguez in a heady, dark sauce spiked with Moroccan harissa, bits of goat cheese and a puddle of fig yoghurt, somehow it all worked. Plus a large portion of steamed cauliflower escabeche, seasoned with Brazilian chimichurri. We ate the whole thing, it was so good. In addition there are salads from $7, tacos from $9 and a cheese board for $15. Next time I hope to zero in on one of their three paellas. They have fancy cocktails and wine from $10 per glass.
Bow and Truss, 11122 Magnolia Blvd., North Hollywood 91601. Full bar. Lunch and dinner daily, Saturday & Sunday brunch. Valet parking $8. (818) 985-8787