LIDO De MANHATTAN

Recommended by a local friend, this attractive restaurant serves what we used to all Continental cuisine – but with a slight Italian accent. Tables are smartly set with white napery, bold art is placed on wood backgrounds against the wall. Lighting is soft and service attentive. For Manhattan Beach, home of the high livers and big spenders, prices are fair. Their wine list is well assembled with glasses going from $10. Out of the ordinary pasta, $15 – $20 (for rigatoni with filet mignon). There’s fresh bread and a sort of pesto made with biting hot, raw garlic which should be approached with caution and a roll of Lifesavers. Entrees start at $22 (chicken) to $35 (rack of lamb). Included with these is one side dish and the selection of truly inspired. But who can decide between – get ready: herb fries, scalloped potatoes, gorgonzola mashers, sautéed mushrooms, quinoa primavera, spinach sautéed with garlic, roasted fingerling potatoes, broccolini, cauliflower with capers and parmesan or truffle mac’n cheese? It’s like going to a designer shoe sale and every pair fits. In other words, you want them all! We finally settled on the sautéed mushrooms with roast duck and the quinoa for the osso buco and divvied them up. The duck comes in slices, with cherry sauce which is not sweet and cloying but savory with the flavors of pan drippings, terrific at $24. The veal shank, a generous, horizontal slice, meaty and tender, covered with veggies, predominantly carrots, is a winner as well. $29. They thoughtfully provide a tiny fork for digging out the marrow from the big round bone and when you’re done, bring that home to Fido and he’ll love you even more. Lido di Manhattan, 1550 Rosecrans Avenue, Suite C (on a corner approximately across from Bristol Farms). Full bar. Parking in front. (310) 536-0730

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